If you want a safe bet for a meal that won't disappoint, head to Il Bistro Italiano at the corner of 4th and Main. Il Bistro has been around long enough now that it can be considered one of the cornerstones of fine dining in the Grand Valley. But that doesn't stop the owners, Brunella Gualerzi and Ron Hall, from continually updating the menu and service to keep the restaurant fresh and invigorated.

I think one of the things I find most appealing about Il Bistro is that Brunella isn't concerned with putting together a menu of Italian Restaurant Greatest Hits. Instead she serves original creations, what she likes and, above all, the regionally unique food she grew up with. I suspect autumn and winter are her favorite seasons because they bring out the best in her food. As the weather cools, more and more dishes find their way onto the menu that are creamy, homey and ultimately satisfying.

Last night the group I was with dined entirely from the Stuzzichini section of the menu, comprised of  small dishes, salads and pizzas that can serve as an appetizer or be shared by the table as we did.

We tried several new items:

• Duck and Horseradish Salad -- House-cured local duck breast from Olathe, thinly sliced and served with fresh pears and walnuts over arugula dressed with a horseradish vinaigrette that perfectly complemented the richness of the duck.
• Macherroni and Cheese -- Just what it sounds like, only better, the short pasta tubes (made in-house like all of their pastas) were served baked in a crock with a creamy Gruyere sauce, speck and peas, and garnished with white truffle oil.
• Pasta Fritters -- Our waiter, Alex, told us this is one of Mama's (Brunella's mother) specialties. Whenever she is in town, she makes them for all the staff. The fritters came out in a basket, golden-brown with crisp frizzles of spaghetti extending out in all directions. When bitten into, they were pillowy soft, a little sweet and a little salty from the occasional capers flecked through the dough. The lemony honey mustard sauce that accompanied the fritters made them something of a delicious fried version of picatta.

The wine menu at Il Bistro is built very much like the food menu: an ever-changing offering, mostly Italian, often unique, with local products prominently featured. We had a very nice pinot grigio with dinner for only $22 a bottle.

About once a month or so, Il Bistro offers their popular Wine Night, when nearly all of the wines on the menu are available for half-price. The next one is on Tuesday, Oct. 27. This Sunday, Oct. 25, Brunella and Ron are featuring a night of live jazz and fresh seafood flown in from Hawaii. Tonight will just be a normal night: A dining room packed with people enjoying memorable food, wine and service.