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Food & Wine Expert
Wayne Smith
Arts & Culture Expert
Dianna Fritzler
Outdoors Expert
Bill Haggerty
 
Food & Wine Expert
 
 
 
Affectionately known by the locals as “Chef Wayne,” Smith walked into his first professional kitchen at the age of 15 and has been pleasing palates ever since. He's worked in California and Hawaii, but now lives, cooks and teaches the culinary arts in Grand Junction. It's a place known for great restaurants, chefs, local produce and Colorado-grown wines – and Smith's “in the know” about them all.  Read full profile
Date Published: 05/05/2010
Suehiro, downtown on Main Street, has been serving traditional Japanese cuisine since most people around here still thought sushi was bait. Over the years they built a loyal following, but when owner Sumiko Boyd's son, Chris, left to open No Coast Sushi, some people wondered whether or not this town was big enough for both of them. The answer is an emphatic "yes."

As sushi chef Joel told me while preparing rolls, the opening of No Coast has had a positive impact on Suehiro. No Coast has built up quite a fan base, but is only open for dinner. So when sushi fans go out for lunch, the obvious choice is Suehiro.

Joel and the crew have developed a number of new menu items that move Suehiro beyond traditional Japanese, and the public is loving them. Late last week we tried the Mango Tango and the Hulk, two new specialty rolls. The Mango Tango is a tasty combination of fresh mango, tempura-fried shrimp, tuna, cream cheese, avocado and sriracha. What makes it really clean and tasty is the fact that it is rolled in a soy wrapper rather than the traditional nori seaweed wrap. As Joel explained, the ocean flavor of the nori would overwhelm the delicate combination of tuna and mango. It would make a great roll to put in front of your friends who have a sushi phobia.

The Hulk combines tuna, asparagus, sriracha and crab rolled in rice and dipped in a tempura batter flecked with nori. It was light with a great crunch and finishes with clean sriracha heat. Pair it up with a Mai Tai or one of their many signature mojitos (my choice is the Ty-Kujito made with Ty-Ku citrus liqueur), and you may find bliss.

Sitting at the sushi bar is a great way to meet new people. On our latest trip we crossed paths with Tia, a cowgirl from Cody, Wyoming, who recently relocated to Loma. (Tia's mojito: Pamajito made with Pama pomegranate liqueur.) I asked her how a horse woman from Cody becomes a sushi fan. She told me her sister introduced her to sushi and she took to it immediately. One by one, her entire family was won over and they all love it now. Anyway, Tia works out at Strayhorn Grill in Loma, where a reputation for great food is being built, rides her horses and is working on building a competition rodeo team at Mesa State College. Tia has a lot of great stories, many of them involving her ranch dog, a Yorkie so small it can run "straight through a chain-link fence without slowing down." Welcome to the Valley, Tia, and farewell to your co-worker (and my former student) Caitlin, who is headed to Alaska to work at a backcountry lodge and wrestle bears. Good luck!
 
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