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Did You Know? – Enstrom’s CandiesWine Tasting 101Colorado Wines: What We’re MakingDid You Know? -- Wine CountryChef Wayne – Videos and Recipes
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![]() CULINARY AND WINE By Nancy Yackel
For 32 years Grand Junction residents celebrating special occasions have found their way down the gas-lamp lighted alcove to The Winery Restaurant. Flowered stained glass windows, bricks and barn wood transform a nearly century-old, former fire station into a comfortable dining room. Steve Thoms, owner since 2004, says, "I want to provide diners an intimate setting and the best meal available." Sterling Silver aged steaks and prime rib headline the steakhouse menu. Thoms recommends the Filet Oscar as his personal favorite, a filet mignon topped with asparagus spears and covered with a lobster/crab Newburg sauce. Colorado lamb chops, pork tenderloin and seafood entrées add variety. The wine list leans heavily to the reds with local wineries well represented: cabernet sauvignons from Canyon Wind Cellars and Two Rivers Winery; cabernet franc, sangiovese and syrah from Plum Creek and Grande River's Meritage Red – a full-bodied red with a hint of oak.
The homemade breads, pastas and desserts at Il Bistro Italiano earn a loyal following. Chef Brunella Gualerzi draws on her youth in Italy when creating the restaurant's acclaimed menus. While some diners come for the thin-crust, stone-oven pizzas, I head directly to the pasta selections. Gnocchi with mushroom sauce, shrimp, avocado and prosciutto in a creamy white wine sauce over spinach tagliatelle, and roasted beet filled cannelloni with a gorgonzola, walnut sauce – all are among my personal favorites. Gualerzi's menus and wine lists change quarterly to highlight seasonal flavors. Il Bistro offers a full page of Colorado wines including a dozen "by the glass" selections. Carlson Vineyards is well represented with Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Lemberger and the orange flavored Fat Cat Muscat – a great match for tiramisu. A deli in the front of the restaurant sells Italian ingredients, meats and cheeses, plus handmade pastas and bakery items. John Barbier, executive chef and owner of Rendez Vous Restaurant brings a Frenchman's love of food and wine from the Loire Valley to the Grand Valley. Proclaiming his style as French Country, Barbier says, "Many are prepared from my dear grandmere's provincial recipes." A dinner of
Barbier frequently selects Plum Creek's Riesling and merlot, Two Rivers' chardonnay and DeBeque Canyon's crisp, citrus viognier or claret for his ever-changing wine list. The first vintages from his own estate winery – merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, rosé and muscat – may be added in 2006. Friday night vibrates with energy at Dolce Vita, winner of Wine Spectator's Restaurant Award. From the sidewalk patio tables and the bar to the quieter dining room, residents and tourists gather for Italian specialties, wine and conversation. More than a dozen seafood dishes appear on the summer menu. I'm immediately drawn to Linguine Dolce Vita, shrimp sautéed with mushrooms, garlic, pine nuts and spinach in a lemon butter sauce. In winter, heavier sauces, more eggplant dishes, osso bucco, duck and pheasant delight taste buds. Several times a year the restaurant offers wine tasting dinners. Dolce Vita owner Rick Crippen likes to showcase small boutique wineries. "We'll be adding DeBeque Canyon to our winter list, their claret and tempranillo. DeBeque's the only local winery using this Spanish varietal and they do a fine job with it." Crippen looks forward to including wine/entrée pairings with his Tuesday through Friday dinner specialties later this year. Whether my mood calls for Italian, country French or a tender piece of beef, I find just the right destination along Main Street, Grand Junction, USA. |
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