5 Minute Read
I had no idea what to expect the first time I went through Colorado National Monument. As far as national parks go, I was pretty familiar with Rocky Mountain and Mesa Verde, but Colorado National Monument was completely new to me. When I saw the signs for it while driving back to Denver from California, I was intrigued and decided to take a small detour to investigate. I figured an extra 30 minutes wouldn’t make much of a difference in my travel time.
Much to my surprise, I ended up spending the next four hours taking in mind-blowing scenery. I was absolutely awestruck by the way Rim Rock Drive hugs the edge of sheer cliffs above intricate canyons (don’t worry, there is plenty of shoulder) and by the massive red sandstone monoliths that rise hundreds of feet above the canyon floor. I think the phrase “jaw-dropping” gets overused, but this was one of those places where I found myself saying “Whoah…” and then realizing my mouth would stay oddly open in amazement for extended periods of time.
Rim Rock Drive is the main road through the Colorado National Monument and stretches 23 miles from end to end. It snakes its way along the edge of canyons through a series of switchbacks and winding turns, with incredible scenery during every minute of the drive. There are also dozens of pull-offs for scenic views, epic photography opportunities and many short, convenient hikes.
Since my first trip, I’ve moved to Grand Junction and continued to return to the Monument to explore and familiarize myself with this unique hidden gem. Last time I went, the Ranger working the entrance gate recognized me before I had the chance to hand him my annual pass. Thanks to his guidance, I found new lookout points and discovered trails that I completely missed on previous trips. I’ve compiled a list of my absolute favorite places; the must-stops I take everyone to who visits me.
Book Cliffs View
Book Cliffs View is right next to the Visitor Center and Saddlehorn Campground. Aptly named for the stunning view of the Book Cliffs, this short walk takes you right to the edge of Wedding Canyon. If you look one way, you see the city of Grand Junction, the Book Cliffs and the Grand Mesa off in the distance. If you look the other way, you get spectacular views of the canyon, including Independence Monument, Praying Hands, Pipe Organ, and Kissing Couple. The red rock canyons seem to unfold before your eyes, and bighorn sheep can sometimes be spotted balancing precariously on rocky ledges throughout the park.
From here, the Canyon Rim Trail runs along the edge and will take you deeper into the canyon. This is a short trail, less than a mile, and will take you straight to the Visitor Center. Don’t let the name discourage you, though; this trail is wide and flat, so you can stay well away from the edge if you want to or venture closer if heights don’t bother you. Even though it’s a short hike, it’s a beautiful one. Give yourself some time to explore the area!
Otto’s Trail
John Otto was one of the first to believe that this wild landscape deserved to be a national park. For many years, he lived among the canyons and built most of the trails by hand. He even got married in front of Independence Monument, though when his wife realized he still planned on living out of a tent, she quickly left and moved back home. When the area became a National Monument in 1911, John became its first caretaker.
Otto’s Trail is another short walk that takes you into the canyon and gives you a direct view of Independence Monument. This giant fin stands alone in the middle of the canyon floor and reaches over 450 feet up into the sky. Every Fourth of July, John would climb the side of Independence Monument and plant a flag at the top, a tradition that is still carried out today. When John made the climb, however, he had little safety gear and used metal pipes to create handholds along the route to the top. From the end of the trail, you can see the route John took up the side of Independence Monument.
Grand View
There’s no other way to put it. The view here is unquestionably grand. For a long time, this was a spot I passed over. Somehow, I missed it for the better part of a year, and now Grand View Overlook is one of my favorite places in the entire Monument. It feels almost like an island out in the middle of everything. You’re surrounded by towering cliff walls, giant stone pillars and open skies.
This is an especially great place to enjoy a sunrise or sunset. As the sun starts to peek over the Grand Mesa in the east or drops behind the mountains to the west, the entire canyon is filled with golden light. The cliff sides become luminescent, seemingly glowing from within the rock. This might be as close as you can get to the perfect setting to just sit, relax, and take in the artwork carved over billions of years. The experience could only be made better by a picnic.
Cold Shivers Point
Cold Shivers Point is a giant fin that cuts through the canyon. You might have noticed a trend here. Book Cliffs View overlooks the Book Cliffs, Otto’s Trail takes you to see the side of Independence Monument and John’s climbing route, and Grand View lives up to its name as one of the grandest views in the entire Monument. Cold Shivers Point follows that theme; walking out on this fin will send cold shivers down your spine. Explore at your own risk and be a responsible adventurer.
No more than a few feet across at the top, Cold Shivers Point comes to an end with a large and flat circular rock, balanced on the edge like a precariously placed table. Occasionally, brave souls make their way out to the end of Cold Shivers Point to experience a perspective that can only be compared to standing on the edge of the world.
Devils Kitchen Trail
Another short hike, Devils Kitchen Trail is less than a mile out and back, and goes up a steep embankment of sandstone into a bowl of monstrous free-standing boulders. These massive stones surround the “kitchen” on three sides and can be dizzying to look up at. As you walk into the kitchen, perfectly balanced rocks stand watch like gargoyles.
I should also say that it’s pretty hard to find a spot in Colorado National Monument that isn’t astonishingly beautiful. But these are my favorites, my go-to, can’t miss spots. I love taking new people to the Monument for the first time and showing them around on this little tour I’ve created. I love watching people’s faces as they experience the larger-than-life views for the first time—it’s like watching a core memory plant itself in someone’s life forever.
Whether you’ve never been to Colorado National Monument or simply haven’t experienced all these overlooks, what are you waiting for? Come visit and explore. I promise you’ll never forget it.
Want to learn more about the Colorado National Monument? Check out pages 10 - 11 of the Grand Junction Adventure Guide.